De Lorean EuroTec

Sorry, last question I promise......both of the fixing points for the struts on the frame are bent slightly and have been like it since I got the car. I know this is a sign that at some point either the torsion bars were torqued too much, or more likely in this case a bad batch of struts were used and have pushed the fixing brackets outwards. This seems to be likely as both sides show pretty much exactly the same amount of movement outwards.

What's the best way of fixing this? I was planning to make a new L shaped bracket that would be fitted to the roof section for added support, but this seems a bit more involved than I thought it would be. Has anyone tackled this and have any wisdom?

Check here viewtopic.php?f=41&t=436&p=22169&hilit=3695+struts#p22169

Ps. I just lost a complete 10 minutes of typing. This is the short version

Its easy, but a lot of work. Reinforced struts can be bought.

cheers Rob. Looks like it might be easier than I thought, and the struts/brackets look pretty good. Might just order some of these, unless anyone else has any ideas?

It might not be the torsion bars. Check the torque of them by removing the lift struts, and then leave the door hanging (unlocked). They should swing a few 5-10 cm's out by themselves.

The reason the brackets are bent might be because of incrrect struts size, or incorrect (too much) pressure. This causes stress on the brackets when the door opens and hits the end point.

Yeah, the torsion bars seem fine. In fact with some help I have taken them up one spline as they didn't hold the door open at all before! I think it was caused by that bad batch of struts over in the US.

Hi Mark,

Many have had the same issue. I think it affects earlier tubs more.

Here was my tale of woe, and the subsequent happy ending.

viewtopic.php?f=22&t=2658

Read the whole thread... The fibreglass surgery sacred the shit out of me, to be honest, digging out from the inside. But the bracket was the business, and bolted up perfectly. It is, as was said, "the bollocks".

Good luck

andy

Another option is Henninger brackets. Not as elegant, it must be said, but a lot of the US guys seem to like them. Mostly due to ease of fitting I think... This is them after painting -->



Here --> http://deloreannewparts.com/store/page14.html

See here for a discussion, and comparison with the alternatives.

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?1378- ... door+strut

a

Thanks Andy, great thread and pictures. It gives me a good idea of what is probably going on. There are no creaks at the moment, but there is a sharp "click" when the door reaches a certain height. Bad news I think looking at what happened to yours. I think the bolt is bent, but still holding on. Hopefully no damage to the tub, but I wont know until I take it out.

That bracket that Darren C made is the business! Alas I don't have access to the materials to do this like stainless so maybe one from dmc is the only option. The Henninger bracket certainly looks like it makes for a very sturdy replacement. I'm just not sure if you'd be able to see it too much once on the door, or is it covered up well by the inner and outer seal?

Hi Mark,

PM me if you still need a bracket

The key to a successful repair is using a "strongback" (backing plate) when fixing to fibreglass. Bolts, Rivet-nuts, Screws, Pop rivets or just a nut and washer behind will eventually tear out of the tub under stress.
Consider the original oval backing plate, even though its 2" long and an inch wide with two bolts they eventually tear through the tub to give you the problems we're experiencing. I have very little faith in a glass patch up job, the tub is too thin and the pressure and stress too localised at the strut point to make a good, long lasting repair this way. Glass fibre repairs are never as good as the original where the resin set as a complete item, repairs always have shear points where old meets new.

Pressure= Force over Area

Increase the area (using a larger or second backing plate) and the pressure is reduced. Combine this with placing the strongback over a good undamaged part of the tub, rather than just a local glass repair around the original damage and you should have a long lasting solution.
Relying on a bolt or rivet-nut is going the other way as you are still focusing point loads. Granted 100 rivets would be fine, but not practical.
The Henninger bracket repair some use is a similar example of the physics but NOT good since it holds up the cover trims around the aperture (if placed under them), promotes water leakage (around the bolts/screws put in vertically) where water naturally sits or looks an eyesore if placed over the trim.

andyd wrote:Another option is Henninger brackets. Not as elegant, it must be said, but a lot of the US guys seem to like them. Mostly due to ease of fitting I think... This is them after painting -->

heninger.jpg

Here --> http://deloreannewparts.com/store/page14.html

See here for a discussion, and comparison with the alternatives.

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?1378- ... door+strut

a

What the Fook's going on with this guy's inner door seals, sticky back draught excluder foam on the doors and edge trim on the aperture.......another well intended disaster